Day 7 - Ihrbid, Jordan

Today was a shorter day than the rest. We actually got into the hotel around 5:30 and had a generous 2 hours before dinner. I used the time to wash clothes. My packing strategy so far seems to be working. I was determined to pack in a single carry-on suitcase and a small backpack. In order to do this I have had to wash clothes each night. I brought only synthetic clothing so they are easily dry by morning. I suspect after three weeks I'll be tired of doing laundry by hand. We Americans are so pampered that sometimes its just pathetic. But you probably aren't reading this to hear about my laundry...

Last night we stayed in a university town that was crawling with young adults. The nightlife was out and about. I'd have to say that compared to Syria, Jordan is quite a bit more liberal. Women dress more freely, though still quite modest by Western standards. Syria was also leading up to an "election" which is more of a confirmation of their president (one person running and you get to vote "yes" or "no"). So pictures of the president were everywhere. I don't know if the same campaign strategies are used in Jordan or not, but there are fewer pictures of King Abdulla II in Jordan than the president in Syria. Though enough that if Bush had his picture posted around the U.S. in the same way, it would raise considerable eyebrows.

This morning began in a unique way with Habitat for Humanity in Jordan. I served for three years on the Northwest Michigan Habitat board so I was particularly interested in what Habitat was up to in Jordan which is basically the same thing, building houses with no-interest loans. The context and some of the details are different, but the same situations exist here as in the States. I was surprised by own experience with Habitat how much work goes into negotiating various social networks and expectations. The same thing happens in Jordan just in a tribal social setting.

The intro to Jordan's Habitat began first with the American director, then the local committee, and then a family who now owns a house. The local custom is to serve coffee to everyone using communal cups. It was something of a Eucharistic moment except that the common cup was coffee. When you were done with your "shot" you had to remember to shake your cup three times or else you would soon have more coffee, which happened to some people. I am not a coffee drinker but I shared out of hospitality's sake.

When we got to the family's house, we were all seated in the living room at couches that sit on the floor. At first the husband spoke while his wife stayed in the background. But someone from our group asked her a question and she almost came running out from behind to answer. She was incredibly animated and clearly ruled the roost. She was very "spunky" and had a wonderful presence. She even argued and joked with the Habitat director while cajoling him to help her family more! It was a great peak behind the curtain of family life in the Middle East, and it was the first native woman we have had the chance to interact with. Out of everything we have done, I have been most moved by this experience. It was an opportunity to really get to know someone a bit more. I am continually impressed with Habitat's work, and the way that God uses Habitat for God's purposes. And it was nice to get off the tourist sight-seeing path for a while. But the sights were waiting and were off to Jerash.

Jerash is an ancient Roman city (go figure). It is most known for its Hadrian's Arch (picture of me at the left). We also saw the Oval Plaza which is unique in its oval-ness. Moving on from the plaza we went to the theater. This was much bigger than Palymra's theater. There were Syrians playing bag-pipes and drums for the tourists. They had an interesting mix of pieces: Amazing Grace, Yankee Doodle, and the Hallelujah chorus. While they played, a group of Italian tourists belly-danced. It was a moment of contrasts!

After the Theater we visited the temple of Artemis. It was an amazing temple high on a hill. Our guide pointed out to us how the columns were engineered to be able to withstand an earthquake by flexing on their base. He put a pocket knife in a crevasse at the end and shoved on the column. The knife moved up and down as the column swayed back and forth. The swaying was imperceptible to the eye, but made perceptible by the knife. One could stick their fingers in the crevasse and feel the column moving. Thankfully it didn't fall on us!

Following Artemis' temple, we visited the Nymphaeum, an amazing fountain system along the "cardio maximus" (the main road through any Roman town). We continued down the cardio maxium and out to the bus.

On the way to our hotel (the Radisson SAS), we stopped by the Wadi Jabok. It is the wadi the Jacob crossed over after wrestling with God and receiving his new name, Israel. There were some sheep and goats and a shepherd there.

Well, that's our day. Here's a couple of random thoughts. We've been escorted by a tourist policeman. His main job seems to be finding us a place to park. Our guide explained that when they opened the border to Israelites back in the 90s, they were afraid that people might hurt Israeli tourists, but this never materialized. But the police escort was helpful for the tourists. Imagine having a police escort with you when you visit Chicago making sure you get a good parking spot and quickly cutting through red tape. What a gift!

One more thought: As I catch the news about the turmoil in Lebanon, I am struck by how little it appears to affect other places in the area. The conflict is very localized. I had always imagined these kind of conflicts causing mass chaos throughout the entire region. But this is not the case. Thus, another incorrect assumption broken down by the experience here in the Middle East.

We get up tomorrow and leave at 7:30 AM for Petra. We are there for two days. I don't know if there will be Internet access so you may not hear from me for some time. All for now.

Peace and grace,

Tom

Check out Amy's Shutterfly site.

Check out Marissa's Blog (a student in the other METS group with Max, we're with Steve).